KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL Part 2 FIRST COURSE FOOD IS GOOD

FIRST COURSE
FOOD IS GOOD
MY FIRST INDICATION THAT food was something other than a substance one stuffed in one’s
face when hungry-like filling up at a gas station-came after fourth-grade elementary school. It
was on a family vacation to Europe, on the Queen Mary, in the cabin-class dining room. There’s
a picture somewhere: my mother in her Jackie O sunglasses, my younger brother and I in our
painfully cute cruisewear, boarding the big Cunard ocean liner, all of us excited about our first
transatlantic voyage, our first trip to my father’s ancestral homeland, France.
It was the soup.
It was cold.
This was something of a discovery for a curious fourth-grader whose entire experience of soup
to this point had consisted of Campbell’s cream of tomato and chicken noodle. I’d eaten in
restaurants before, sure, but this was the first food I really noticed. It was the first food I enjoyed
and, more important, remembered enjoying. I asked our patient British waiter what this
delightfully cool, tasty liquid was.
‘Vichyssoise,’ came the reply, a word that to this day-even though it’s now a tired old warhorse
of a menu selection and one I’ve prepared thousands of times-still has a magical ring to it. I
remember everything about the experience: the way our waiter ladled it from a silver tureen into
my bowl, the crunch of tiny chopped chives he spooned on as garnish, the rich, creamy taste of
leek and potato, the pleasurable shock, the surprise that it was cold.
I don’t remember much else about the passage across the Atlantic. I saw Boeing Boeing with
Jerry Lewis and Tony Curtis in the Queen’s movie theater, and a Bardot flick. The old liner
shuddered and groaned and vibrated terribly the whole way-barnacles on the hull was the
official explanation-and from New York to Cherbourg, it was like riding atop a giant lawn-mower.
My brother and I quickly became bored, and spent much of our time in the ‘Teen Lounge’,
listening to ‘House of the Rising Sun’ on the jukebox, or watching the water slosh around like a
contained tidal wave in the below-deck salt-water pool.
But that cold soup stayed with me. It resonated, waking me up, making me aware of my tongue,
and in some way, preparing me for future events.

My second pre-epiphany in my long climb to chefdom also came during that first trip to France.
After docking, my mother, brother and I stayed with cousins in the small seaside town of
Cherbourg, a bleak, chilly resort area in Normandy, on the English Channel. The sky was almost
always cloudy; the water was inhospitably cold. All the neighborhood kids thought I knew Steve
McQueen and John Wayne personally-as an American, it was assumed we were all pals, that
we hung out together on the range, riding horses and gunning down miscreants-so I enjoyed a
certain celebrity right away. The beaches, while no good for swimming, were studded with old
Nazi blockhouses and gun emplacements, many still bearing visible bullet scars and the scorch
of flamethrowers, and there were tunnels under the dunes-all very cool for a little kid to explore.
My little French friends were, I was astonished to find, allowed to have a cigarette on Sunday,
were given watered vin ordinaire at the dinner table, and best of all, they owned Velo Solex
motorbikes. This was the way to raise kids, I recall thinking, unhappy that my mother did not
agree.
So for my first few weeks in France, I explored underground passageways, looking for dead
Nazis, played miniature golf, sneaked cigarettes, read a lot of Tintin and Asterix comics, scooted
around on my friends’ motorbikes and absorbed little life-lessons from observations that, for
instance, the family friend Monsieur Dupont brought his mistress to some meals and his wife to
others, his extended brood of children apparently indifferent to the switch.
I was largely unimpressed by the food.
The butter tasted strangely ‘cheesy’ to my undeveloped palate. The milk-a staple, no, a
mandatory ritual in ’60s American kiddie life-was undrinkable here. Lunch seemed always to
consist of sandwich au jambon or croque-monsieur. Centuries of French cuisine had yet to
make an impression. What I noticed about food, French style, was what they didn’t have.
After a few weeks of this, we took a night train to Paris, where we met up with my father, and a
spanking new Rover Sedan Mark III, our touring car. In Paris, we stayed at the Hotel Lutétia,
then a large, slightly shabby old pile on Boulevard Haussmann. The menu selections for my
brother and me expanded somewhat, to include steak-frites and steak haché (hamburger). We
did all the predictable touristy things: climbed the Tour Eiffel, picnicked in the Bois de Boulogne,
marched past the Great Works at the Louvre, pushed toy sailboats around the fountain in the
Jardin de Luxembourg-none of it much fun for a nine-year-old with an already developing
criminal bent. My principal interest at this time was adding to my collection of English
translations of Tintin adventures. Hergé’s crisply drafted tales of drug-smuggling, ancient
temples, and strange and faraway places and cultures were real exotica for me. I prevailed on
my poor parents to buy hundreds of dollars-worth of these stories at W. H. Smith, the English
bookstore, just to keep me from whining about the deprivations of France. With my little shortshorts a permanent affront, I was quickly becoming a sullen, moody, difficult little bastard. I
fought constantly with my brother, carped about everything, and was in every possible way a
drag on my mother’s Glorious Expedition.
My parents did their best. They took us everywhere, from restaurant to restaurant, cringing, no
doubt, every time we insisted on steak haché (with ketchup, no less) and a ‘Coca.’ They
endured silently my gripes about cheesy butter, the seemingly endless amusement I took in
advertisements for a popular soft drink of the time, Pschitt. ‘I want shit! I want shit!’ They
managed to ignore the eye-rolling and fidgeting when they spoke French, tried to encourage me
to find something, anything, to enjoy.
And there came a time when, finally, they didn’t take the kids along.
I remember it well, because it was such a slap in the face. It was a wake-up call that food could
be important, a challenge to my natural belligerence. By being denied, a door opened.
The town’s name was Vienne. We’d driven miles and miles of road to get there. My brother and I
were fresh out of Tintins and cranky as hell. The French countryside, with its graceful, tree-lined
roads, hedgerows, tilled fields and picture-book villages provided little distraction. My folks had
by now endured weeks of relentless complaining through many tense and increasingly
unpleasant meals. They’d dutifully ordered our steak haché, crudités variées, sandwich au
jambon and the like long enough. They’d put up with our grousing that the beds were too hard,
the pillows too soft, the neck-rolls and toilets and plumbing too weird. They’d even allowed us a
little watered wine, as it was clearly the French thing to do-but also, I think, to shut us up. They’d
taken my brother and me, the two Ugliest Little Americans, everywhere.
Vienne was different.
They pulled the gleaming new Rover into the parking lot of a restaurant called, rather
promisingly, La Pyramide, handed us what was apparently a hoarded stash of Tintins . . . and
then left us in the car!
It was a hard blow. Little brother and I were left in that car for over three hours, an eternity for
two miserable kids already bored out of their minds. I had plenty of time to wonder: What could
be so great inside those walls? They were eating in there. I knew that. And it was certainly a Big
Deal; even at a witless age nine, I could recognize the nervous anticipation, the excitement, the
near-reverence with which my beleaguered parents had approached this hour. And I had the
Vichyssoise Incident still fresh in my mind. Food, it appeared, could be important. It could be an
event. It had secrets.
I know now, of course, that La Pyramide, even in 1966, was the center of the culinary universe.
Bocuse, Troisgros, everybody had done their time there, making their bones under the
legendarily fearsome proprietor, Ferdinand Point. Point was the Grand Master of cuisine at the
time, and La Pyramide was Mecca for foodies. This was a pilgrimage for my earnestly
francophile parents. In some small way, I got that through my tiny, empty skull in the back of the
sweltering parked car, even then.
Things changed. I changed after that.
First of all, I was furious. Spite, always a great motivating force in my life, caused me to become
suddenly adventurous where food was concerned. I decided then and there to outdo my foodie
parents. At the same time, I could gross out my still uninitiated little brother. I’d show them who
the gourmet was!
Brains? Stinky, runny cheeses that smelled like dead man’s feet? Horsemeat? Sweetbreads?
Bring it on!! Whatever had the most shock value became my meal of choice. For the rest of that
summer, and in the summers that followed, I ate everything. I scooped gooey Vacherin, learned
to love the cheesy, rich Normandy butter, especially slathered on baguettes and dipped in bitter
hot chocolate. I sneaked red wine whenever possible, tried fritures-tiny whole fish, fried and
eaten with persillade-loving that I was eating heads, eyes, bones and all. I ate ray in beurre
noisette, saucisson à l’ail, tripes, rognons de veau (kidneys), boudin noir that squirted blood
down my chin.
And I had my first oyster.
Now, this was a truly significant event. I remember it like I remember losing my virginity-and in
many ways, more fondly.
August of that first summer was spent in La Teste sur Mer, a tiny oyster village on the Bassin
d’Arcachon in the Gironde (Southwest France). We stayed with my aunt, Tante Jeanne, and my
uncle, Oncle Gustav, in the same red tile-roofed, white stuccoed house where my father had
summered as a boy. My Tante Jeanne was a frumpy, bespectacled, slightly smelly old woman,
my Oncle Gustav, a geezer in coveralls and beret who smoked hand-rolled cigarettes until they
disappeared onto the tip of his tongue. Little had changed about La Teste in the years since my
father had vacationed there. The neighbors were still all oyster fishermen. Their families still
raised rabbits and grew tomatoes in their backyards. Houses had two kitchens, an inside one
and an outdoor ‘fish kitchen’. There was a hand pump for drinking water from a well, and an
outhouse by the rear of the garden. Lizards and snails were everywhere. The main tourist
attractions were the nearby Dune of Pyla (Europe’s Largest Sand Dune!) and the nearby resort
town of Arcachon, where the French flocked in unison for Les Grandes Vacances. Television
was a Big Event. At seven o’clock, when the two national stations would come on the air, my
Oncle Gustav would solemnly emerge from his room with a key chained to his hip and
ceremoniously unlock the cabinet doors that covered the screen.
My brother and I were happier here. There was more to do. The beaches were warm, and closer
in climate to what we knew back home, with the added attraction of the ubiquitous Nazi
blockhouses. There were lizards to hunt down and exterminate with readily available pétards,
firecrackers which one could buy legally (!) over-the-counter. There was a forest within walking
distance where an actual hermit lived, and my brother and I spent hours there, spying on him
from the underbrush. By now I could read and enjoy comic books in French and of course I was
eating-really eating. Murky brown soupe de poisson, tomato salad, moules marinières, poulet
basquaise (we were only a few miles from the Basque country). We made day trips to Cap
Ferret, a wild, deserted and breathtakingly magnificent Atlantic beach with big rolling waves,
taking along baguettes and saucissons and wheels of cheese, wine and Evian (bottled water
was at that time unheard of back home). A few miles west was Lac Cazeaux, a fresh-water lake
where my brother and I could rent pédalo watercraft and pedal our way around the deep. We
ate gaufres, delicious hot waffles, covered in whipped cream and powdered sugar. The two hot
songs of that summer on the Cazeaux jukebox were ‘Whiter Shade of Pale’ by Procol Harum,
and ‘These Boots Were Made for Walkin’ by Nancy Sinatra. The French played those two songs
over and over again, the music punctuated by the sonic booms from French air force jets which
would swoop over the lake on their way to a nearby bombing range. With all the rock and roll,
good stuff to eat and high-explosives at hand, I was reasonably happy.
So, when our neighbor, Monsieur Saint-Jour, the oyster fisherman, invited my family out on his
penas (oyster boat), I was enthusiastic.

At six in the morning, we boarded Monsieur Saint-Jour’s small wooden vessel with our picnic
baskets and our sensible footwear. He was a crusty old bastard, dressed like my uncle in
ancient denim coveralls, espadrilles and beret. He had a leathery, tanned and windblown face,
hollow cheeks, and the tiny broken blood vessels on nose and cheeks that everyone seemed to
have from drinking so much of the local Bordeaux. He hadn’t fully briefed his guests on what
was involved in these daily travails. We put-putted out to a buoy marking his underwater oyster
parc, a fenced-off section of bay bottom, and we sat . . . and sat . . . and sat, in the roaring
August sun, waiting for the tide to go out. The idea was to float the boat over the stockaded
fence walls, then sit there until the boat slowly sank with the water level, until it rested on the
bassin floor. At this point, Monsieur Saint-Jour, and his guests presumably, would rake the
oysters, collect a few good specimens for sale in port, and remove any parasites that might be
endangering his crop.
There was, I recall, still about two feet of water left to go before the hull of the boat settled on dry
ground and we could walk about the parc. We’d already polished off the Brie and baguettes and
downed the Evian, but I was still hungry, and characteristically said so.
Monsieur Saint-Jour, on hearing this-as if challenging his American passengers-inquired in his
thick Girondais accent, if any of us would care to try an oyster.
My parents hesitated. I doubt they’d realized they might have actually to eat one of the raw,
slimy things we were currently floating over. My little brother recoiled in horror.
But I, in the proudest moment of my young life, stood up smartly, grinning with defiance, and
volunteered to be the first.
And in that unforgettably sweet moment in my personal history, that one moment still more alive
for me than so many of the other ‘firsts’ which followed-first pussy, first joint, first day in high
school, first published book, or any other thing-I attained glory. Monsieur Saint-Jour beckoned
me over to the gunwale, where he leaned over, reached down until his head nearly disappeared
underwater, and emerged holding a single silt-encrusted oyster, huge and irregularly shaped, in
his rough, clawlike fist. With a snubby, rust-covered oyster knife, he popped the thing open and
handed it to me, everyone watching now, my little brother shrinking away from this glistening,
vaguely sexual-looking object, still dripping and nearly alive.
I took it in my hand, tilted the shell back into my mouth as instructed by the by now beaming
Monsieur Saint-Jour, and with one bite and a slurp, wolfed it down. It tasted of seawater . . . of
brine and flesh . . . and somehow . . . of the future.
Everything was different now. Everything.
I’d not only survived-I’d enjoyed.
This, I knew, was the magic I had until now been only dimly and spitefully aware of. I was
hooked. My parents’ shudders, my little brother’s expression of unrestrained revulsion and
amazement only reinforced the sense that I had, somehow, become a man. I had had an
adventure, tasted forbidden fruit, and everything that followed in my life-the food, the long and
often stupid and self-destructive chase for the next thing, whether it was drugs or sex or some
other new sensation-would all stem from this moment.
I’d learned something. Viscerally, instinctively, spiritually-even in some small, precursive way,
sexually-and there was no turning back. The genie was out of the bottle. My life as a cook, and
as a chef, had begun.
Food had power.
It could inspire, astonish, shock, excite, delight and impress. It had the power to please me . . .
and others. This was valuable information.
For the rest of that summer, and in later summers, I’d often slip off by myself to the little stands
by the port, where one could buy brown paper bags of unwashed, black-covered oysters by the
dozen. After a few lessons from my new soul-mate, blood brother and bestest buddy, Monsieur
Saint-Jour-who was now sharing his after-work bowls of sugared vin ordinaire with me too-I
could easily open the oysters by myself, coming in from behind with the knife and popping the
hinge like it was Aladdin’s cave.

I’d sit in the garden among the tomatoes and the lizards and eat my oysters and drink
Kronenbourgs (France was a wonderland for under-age drinkers), happily reading Modesty
Blaise and the Katzenjammer Kids and the lovely hard-bound bandes dessinées in French, until
the pictures swam in front of my eyes, smoking the occasional pilfered Gitane. And I still
associate the taste of oysters with those heady, wonderful days of illicit late-afternoon buzzes.
The smell of French cigarettes, the taste of beer, that unforgettable feeling of doing something I
shouldn’t be doing.
I had, as yet, no plans to cook professionally. But I frequently look back at my life, searching for
that fork in the road, trying to figure out where, exactly, I went bad and became a thrill-seeking,
pleasure-hungry sensualist, always looking to shock, amuse, terrify and manipulate, seeking to
fill that empty spot in my soul with something new.
I like to think it was Monsieur Saint-Jour’s fault. But of course, it was me all along.