An Anthony Bourdain-famous green curry in Little India

The eat: Himalaya’s chicken hara masala ($14.75)
As a South Asian woman who has frequented the Mahatma Gandhi District for Indian food, fashion and more since the late ’80s, I am no stranger to dining at Himalaya. To my surprise, my Scottish-Irish Houston-born husband, who has never met a chicken tikka masala he didn’t love, had never been. So, a visit was swiftly planned.

Himalaya is located in a strip center in Houston’s Ghandi district.
Himalaya is located in a strip center in Houston’s Ghandi district.

Courtesy photo
With a bottle of red wine in hand, we made our way to the BYOB restaurant for dinner. After waiting at the crowded door until two seats became available, we found ourselves at a table tightly wedged between other eager diners. Sure, there was the occasional bumping of the back of our chairs, and a bit of a wait for a couple of plastic cups for our wine, but all was forgotten when the chicken hara masala and a platter of garlic naan hit our table.

The spicy green curry is stewed with green chiles, cilantro, yogurt and fragrant garam masala and boasts sizable chunks of tender, boneless chicken. It offers a tang that other chicken curries do not, and is not so sweat-inducing that it sparks discomfort.

It’s not uncommon to see this dish emerge from the kitchen time and time again during a visit to Himalaya. Not only is it one of the best items on the menu, but it’s become highly sought after since its appearance on a 2018 episode of “Parts Unknown,” where the late Anthony Bourdain gave it a try.

What else?
Since it opened its doors in 2004, Himalaya has been lauded for its flavorful Indo-Pak eats and fusion dishes, with chef Kaiser Lashkari earning multiple James Beard Award nominations. It’s helpful to know before you go, though, that the restaurant is as no-frills as it gets. For one thing, it’s tiny and doesn’t accept reservations, so waiting for a table is almost a guarantee (and yes, that goes for lunch and dinner, weekdays and weekends).

Himalaya chef and owner Kaiser Lashkari stirs up a dish in the kitchen at his Houston restaurant.
Himalaya chef and owner Kaiser Lashkari stirs up a dish in the kitchen at his Houston restaurant.

Elizabeth Conley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer

It may not be the best restaurant service you’ve ever had, but the food is worthy. If you don’t get seated at the table of your dreams, or have to wait more than 15 minutes to place your order, don’t take it personally. It’s all part of the charm of dining at Himalaya.

Himalaya
Find it: 6652 Southwest Fwy, Houston, TX 77074; (713) 532-2837
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.